• Uncategorized 26.06.2016

         Congratulation for wanting to take up a new hobby and especially so HOMEBREWING! The rewards are many and embody being able to make your very own beer at a fraction of the inestimable of commercial craft beer. You will gain a great deal of satisfaction that not many other hobbies can emanate especially when sharing the beer with mates and generation over and concluded again. It is the elixir of bonding and mateship and the lubricant for parties and BBQ’s. It is the essence of human friendship. There is no upper age limit and transcends exclusively races, most creeds and boundaries. It’s a great scheme to keep the mind ticking just when retirement hits us. And best of all it doesn’t have to cost our retirement fund to get started. So let’s get into it now!
    The 5 steps needed to get around started and brew beer are;
    1. The equipment and ingredients needed 2. Cleaning and sanitising equipment 3. Making your first batch 4. Measurements moreover the hydrometer 5. Bottling the beer
    1. Equipment And Ingredients
    The simplest equipment needed consists of a 30 Litre Fermenter and
    a. Air Link and Sealing Grommet b. Crown Hand Capper c. 100 Bottle Caps d. Sterilizing Agent (EG. sodium metabisulphite & citric acid) e. Bottle Shave with tip f. Tap with Sediment Reducer g. Priming Measuring scoop h. Bottler-Filler with gravity foot i. Thermometer self-adhesive j. 1kg Dextrose Brewing Sugar
    Figure 1 (see end from article for link) shows unanimity the components which will get you started. You will yearn to measure the sugar level in the brew , called “wort”. To do this you will need a hydrometer to measure the sugar content and a container to hold the brew to measure (see fig. 2, see end of article for link).
    Now all you need is a can regarding extract such as the 1.7kg Coopers elicitation can ampersand 1 kg of dextrose. Follow the instructions shown on the underlid of the can. You want also be provided upon a sachet of yeast
    If you are brewing for the first time it’s a good idea to ask at your local brew shop for help.
    2. Cleaning and sanitising equipment
    The beginning of a good beer starts alongside good hygiene! The importance regarding this step should never be underestimated- the first step is making sure all your equipment coming in contact with the sugary key (wort) or beer is clean and sanitary. How do you do this?
    If your equipment is dirty remove the soil by using specially designed cleansers obtained from the brewshop or protasis you have “Napisan” in the laundry this is a powerful cleanser leaving nay smelly residues.
    The method like application depends on the severity of the soil. If heavy soil exists then a soaking would be in order. Start with heating up unknown natatory until about 50 deg.C. Carefully pour into the soiled keg such as the vinyl fermenter, enough to cover the heavily soiled area. Bear sure all rubber seals do nought come in aansluiting with the feverish water. Add about a tablespoon , or as directed, to the water and stir it in. and leave it for several hours.
    Safety: you should wear asylum goggles and rubber gloves when performing this operation, et cetera follow shelter instructions on the packet.
    With elbow length rubber gloves on you can remove the soil easily alongside a sponge or a no scuff scourer. Never use hard cleaning implements that will scotch the surface.
    Drain the detergent and rinse with plenty of clean tap water. Drain the vessel and authorization to dry before storing or if using to make beer immediately start the sanitising step.
    Sanitisation is done by using about 1-2 litres of cold water and adding a sanitiser such as sodium metabisulphite (1 tablespoon) and a pinch of citric acid. Make sure the seals, taps, stirring spoon and grommet etc are also sanitised. Do this an hour before required. Drain sanitiser and allow flagon and implements to drain for 20 minutes. Do not rinse with water! You are now ready to use the fermenter and all implements required.
    3. Making your first batch
    Open can of pre-heated extract, pour into fermenter Sluice can with hot water, add to fermenter Add remainder of 2 L. hot water (boiled) Stir contents vigorously until homogenous liquid achieved Add brewing xylose while adding cold tap water to the fermenter Stir vigorously until sugar dissolved Fill the fermenter to 22 L. mark with cold water Stir contents while filling Check temperature is no more than 26C Pour in unemotional yeast Movement vigorously with sanitised spoon to aerify wort and mix contents Detract a sample in a test cylinder & cool to 20C, measure specific gravity, or its viscosity (see 4. below) Add water if necessary, mix et al retest gravity Rinse tap with water or sanitiser when finished Close the fermenter including place airlock in position and fill with clean water or gin Place the fermenter in a cool spot overnight to allow the tempertaure to drop to ~18C, assuming probable Next day residence fermenter at a constant room temperature (~20C)
    4. Measurements and the hydrometer
    Figure 2. shows the hydrometer placed in the sugary solution in a grand cylinder. It is express by using the specific staidness (S.G.) scale on the glass hydrometer as illustrated.
    This rendition is known because the original weightiness and most beers will voltooien encircling 1.040 S.G. Do not return the contents back to the fermenter for parlous of contamination. I suggest that if this is your first time brewing do refusal attempt to adjust this reading with spray granting it is much senior than 1.040
    When fermentation is complete, ie when bubbling stops and it does nay taste sweet leave alias diurnal including re-measure the gravity. It should breathe around 1.010 S.G. This is called the final gravity (F.G.).
    To calculate the approximate alcohol content just use this formula; %ABV (alcohol concerning volume)= OG-FG (omit decimal point)= and Propagate by 0.14 =
    For example OG= 1.040, F.G = 1.010 %ABV= (1040-1010)x 0.14= 4.2%
    We are not at an end yet because we will be adding sugar to each bottle to carbonate the beer in the bottle (see after section). This demand reveal extra alcohol, concerning 0.5 % ABV, so the total alcohol will be about 4.7% ABV.
    5. Bottling the beer
    The beer is flat at this stage so needs to be carbonated. We achieve this by adding a quantity of sugar to each bottle, fill it with the fungus beer and cap it tight.
    The minimum requirement for bottling equipment is a capper concerning some sort that will administer a crown seal to individually bottle, and a filling tube (see fig. 1) . Also you will need some form of sugar to complete the bottle fermentation. I use Coppers carbonation drops so of indulgent of use and smaller messy.
    After cleaning (if required) and sanitising the bottles I allow them to drain exactly as I did the fermenter before brewing.
    If using 330 ml bottles I fill the bottle with beer (see fig. 1) and consequently place one carbonation drop in (for large bottles over 620ml add 2 drops). I then fill 2 more bottles and then cap each one. I repeat this series of 3 bottles if I am doing this by myself in order to minimise airborne dust particles and bacteria entering the bottles.
    Once all the beer has been bottled stock the bottles upright in a constant room temperature place at about 20 deg. C. for 2 weeks. Keep in a obscure location to avoid any light contact which will make the grog skunky.
    After 2 weeks try a bottle after initially cooling it in a refrigerator. If it is still flat and sweet allow the leftover bottles to stay at room temperature a further week and try again.
    You pronto should have your first homebrewed beer. For best results store the beer in the refrigerator after proving it is carbonated. Benevolence drinking and share it around responsibly at your next gathering with friends and family. You’re sure to impress.
    Copyright (c) 2013 Vincent Costanzo

    Posted by kid @ 7:39 am

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